Sunday, July 20, 2008

Jerusalem's Jewel

When I think of Jerusalem's open market, Shuk Mahane Yehudah, it always brings a smile to my face; it also always makes the eyes roll. Going to the shuk is an awesome, yet hectic and tiring experience, especially on Fridays when it is jam packed with all types of people. I went to the shuk this Friday to get what I think are the best stuffed grape leaves around. Before walking through the gate and becoming part of the moving mass of humanity, I took a deep breath and said "I'm goin in!" With that many people to contend with, it's almost like going into a battle. In fact, it IS a battle to stay on my feet! I used to only go to the shuk with my husband and I'd stick to him like glue so I wouldn't fall, but as time passed I got more aggressive/confident. As my husband says "You have to be Israeli and push back!" Now if I get pushed, I either push back or just keep on going, but the point is that I can handle going on my own.

Going to the shuk is always an experience for all 5 senses. Blind people often frequent the shuk which I find immensely brave. Tourists with cameras are also very often at the shuk. But there is so much more to the shuk than just what the eye can see. Vendors yell out prices and heckle with buyers. Sometimes it gets so loud that I feel like yelling "Shut up already! I heard you the first ten times!" However all that yelling is also what makes the shuk so great. Vendors aren't the cleanest either. Many smoke around the food and their hands are black with dirt and grit, but that's also part of the beauty of the shuk. It may be beautiful but you can be sure I wash all the produce VERY WELL before we eat it! Some vendors have been in the shuk for years and if you are a repeat customer they remember you, offer a handshake, a kind word, or on a Friday, a hearty Shabbat Shalom.

Finally I get to the stand where the grape leaves are sold. I wait till I can make my way to the tongs and containers. I taste a grape leaf before I fill a container and they are absolute heaven. Vendors yell and people push, but my week just got a whole lot better. Being able to taste food without having to ask, whether you buy the food or not, is also what makes the shuk so awesome. After getting my grape leaves I went searching for nuts and a newspaper. I groaned as soon as I walked into the alleyway where I thought I remembered the nut man being. It was PACKED with people. I felt like a sardine packed in there with so many people. I slowly made my way out of there with my grape leaves and peaches intact.

The fragrances of the produce and baked goods always makes my nose happy and my mouth water. The horrid smell of fish and meat always make me hold my breath as I quickly walk past those sections if I have to go there. My husband always laughs at me when we walk through the fish and meat section together because I always hold my breath. Walking through the open shuk is also very entertaining. People play musical instruments or just make their own music by singing and dancing. The people who make their own music are usually overly happy hippies who could usually use a shower.

There are many beautiful things about Jerusalem. Being able to go to the shuk every week, (or every day) and buy fresh, delicious fruits, vegetables and meats at GREAT prices compared to American prices, is just one of the things that makes the shuk so popular. The memorable experience gained, especially on a Friday, makes the shuk one of the best things about Jerusalem.

3 comments:

Joseph Tamargo said...

you are such a great writer you had me there tasting grape leaves

Anonymous said...

Great article Chaya. Reminds me of our visit to the market on a Friday with you and Paul. Mmmmm I can still smell the freshly baked breads. Dad Hyams

Shaindel B. said...

Loved it!! You really captured the experience! To think I was later a part of your first venture into the shuk...